Before Hong Kong was a powerful economic centre, it was a fishing community. Sampans, junks and larger fishing boats traveled through Victoria Harbour, often subject to the violence of typhoons in the South China Sea. After particularly harsh typhoons in 1874 and 1906, the city created and expanded typhoon shelters in the harbour. The Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter was ultimately constructed in 1953.
In modern times, much of the area of the shelter has been reduced by continuing expansion of Hong Kong Island with harbour land fill. The crescent shape is bounded by Kellett Island to the west, providing a natural windbreak. Study the typhoon shelter to see if you recognise it from films it’s often an integral part of Chinese action movies filmed in Hong Kong.
If you have a wealthy friend in Hong Kong, you may be invited for a ride on a yacht moored in the shelter. If not, simply enjoy looking at these modern houseboats and cruisers. Spot local fishermen in sampans or the floating restaurant, only recently returned to the harbour after years of restrictions because of water pollution.
Nearby, look and listen for the Noon-Day Gun. In the 1860s when British traders dominated Hong Kong, the Jardine House began a ceremony of cannon firing each day at noon. The gun was destroyed during the war and then replaced. The tradition continues, even after the Handover. The best way to reach the gun is via a pedestrian tunnel from Excelsior Hotel. Arrive shortly before noon to watch the brief ceremony and then continue exploration of Causeway Bay.
Walk southwest to Victoria Park, which hosts varied activities. Visit on Sundays and see thousands of Indonesian domestic helpers on their day off. Bring a blanket and join the Lunar New Year Festival in early spring by sampling foods and smelling fragrant flowers. In June, marvel at thousands of candle-holding citizens commemorating the anniversary of the 1989 Tiananmen incident, in which Beijing University students were killed.
Causeway Bay is easily reached via the Island MTR line, disembarking at Tin Hau or Causeway Bay stations.
