Escaping the Crowd in Kota Kinabalu

The capital of Sabah is not only the main gateway to East Malaysia, it is also a treasure trove of natural wonders ranging from lush rainforests to a teeming marine park. City slicker Karen Tee takes a break from the concrete jungle to spend a few days in Kota Kinabalu.

By Karen Tee –

Most travellers associate the city of Kota Kinabalu with its most famous landmark – Mount Kinabalu – and rightfully so. But knowing there’s a bounty of other natural treasures to explore, I headed to Gaya Island, the largest island in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park to spend a few days soaking in the greens and the blues of the sea and rainforests surrounding me.

Just a 20-minute speedboat trip from downtown Kota Kinabalu, Gaya Island is home to a virgin tropical forest reserve and also boasts of vibrant snorkeling spots that house a variety of unspoilt corals, clown fish, sea anemones and even sea urchins. I stayed at Gaya Island Resort, one of three resorts on this island, which is built with local materials and is committed to an ecologically-sustainable philosophy. For instance, there is minimal use of motorised vehicles on the resort with visitors encouraged to walk instead and the resort only purchases line-fished seafood for its restaurant.

Upon arrival, I was whisked to Tavajun Bay on a private island just five minutes from Gaya Island where a small marine rescue centre is located. With a focus on turtle rescue and coral reef restoration, I took some time to speak to the resident marine biologist about the threats to the local ecosystem, which include pollution and turtle-egg poachers. The centre had just taken in a group of turtle hatchlings with the aim of releasing them to the wild after they have reached maturity in three to five years time. Barely the size of an adult’s palm, it was a delight to watch the baby turtles nibble on seafood scraps during feeding time.

Sunset Cruise

That evening, I boarded a private yacht for a stunning sunset cruise in the surrounding waters, before heading for a gastronomical voyage at a Kadazan BBQ dinner on a mangrove beach. The Kadazans are one of the main tribes of Borneo, and their cuisine focuses on fresh seafood cooked with local plants such as bamboo and the local liquor, Lihing. As I dined on impossibly fresh lobsters, prawns and all manner of seafood, with a crackling campfire casting dramatic shadows on the local performers, I could not help but feel like an honoured visitor to a jungle tribe.

Sunrise

Be sure to wake up to catch the sunrise at about 6am. With an unencumbered view of the morning sun rising over Mount Kinabalu in the distance as the sky burns in varying hues of orange, pink and red, this is a moment worth sacrificing sleep for.

An invigorating morning yoga session put me in a relaxed mood for the day’s activities, which included an essential oil blending session and more beach activities, such as snorkelling, swimming and enjoying a fresh coconut on the shore. There are also dive sites located within the Marine Park for more adventurous souls.

It is also worth taking some time from lazing pool- or beach-side to go on a guided nature walk in the virgin rainforest, which is rich in endemic flora and fauna. The island has about 20km of hiking trails, but a naturalist or guide will be able to recommend a trail that suits an individual’s fitness condition. Keep your eyes peeled for the shy proboscis monkeys, who often frolick in the highest branches of the trees.

Wildlife

While I did not manage to spot any during my stay, I was told that the monkeys can sometimes descend from their lofty homes. One was recently found inexplicably swimming in the sea, and had to be rescued to shore in a speedboat, where it promptly ran back into the forest. A family of wild boars have also been seen roaming the resort’s grounds, but I was assured that the animals will not attack unless provoked, thanks to the island’s human inhabitants’ policy of non-inteference.

I only had two nights on the tranquil island, but that was time enough for me to experience the calming and rejuvenating effect of plugging out of the digital realm and getting connected with the real wonders that the world has to offer. I’d left with a newfound respect for the environment and a sense of hopefulness that humans still have the capacity to co-exist with the natural world. Up next, I’ll be back to conquer the grand dame of Borneo, Mount Kinabalu.

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Booking Period: Before 5 May 2015 | Travel Period: Before 18 June 2015