Ayutthaya: My Favourite Things to Do in Thailand’s Ancient Capital

Ayutthaya, a fascinating former Siamese capital with a long history and plenty of atmospheric ruins, is one of my all-time favourite places in Thailand. Whilst many people visit to see the historical sites, which are indeed very worthy, there are plenty more things to enjoy in Ayutthaya. Here are some of my favourites:

Wat Mahatat: Headline Ayutthaya attraction with an unusual feature

Walking through the ruins of Wat Mahatat set my imagination racing. Exploring the ancient site, you will be struck thinking how grand it must have been in times gone by and about the people who once lived there.

If you learn a little about the city’s history before you go, your trip will be a lot more meaningful; you will also understand why many of the stone Buddha statues now have no heads! Stone chedis are scattered throughout the grounds, the stucco having long fallen away in patches, leaving the bricks exposed to the elements.

There are many headless Buddha statues, along with one large statue that has retained all of its body parts. The main draw for many, however, is to see one very special head: a head that has become entwined in the gnarled tree branches over time. Looking at that head stirred a range of emotions inside me; it’s a striking reminder of the delicate balance between man and nature and the temporary nature of all things.

Wat Ratchaburana: Historical site with more whispers from the past

Located next door to Wat Mahatat, it’s easy to stroll into Wat Ratchaburana afterwards. The central prang is an impressive sight, but for me, climbing up to the top of the prang was even more magical. Gazing across the surrounding ruins, I somehow felt quite small, with the realisation of the once-great accomplishments that took place in this very city and how time leaves nothing untouched.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon: Sacred site with bursts of golden hues

Choosing an ultimate favourite temple in Ayutthaya is a tough call, but if I absolutely had to, it would be Wat Yai.

Located outside of the main historical park, do make the time to journey out to this temple; you won’t be disappointed! Row upon row of cross-legged Buddha images (here, with their heads still in place) line the courtyards, each draped in a saffron-coloured cloth. It’s a very picturesque temple, and I spent hours just wandering around the relatively small complex and admiring the details. Don’t miss the long reclining Buddha statue, a picture-perfect vision adorned with a yellow cloth.  

Having climbed up one of the stone prangs for a peek inside (nothing but the musty smell of bats and a small shrine), I made my way around to the rear. Here, I was met by the sight of even more statues dressed in golden garments, with the white stone a nice contrast to the grey stone of the earlier statues. It was also interesting to see Buddha statues in different poses, with some standing, some sitting, and some kneeling.

Bang Pa-In Palace: A whimsical royal complex with eclectic features

Although a short journey of around 30 minutes from the historical heart of Ayutthaya, I was glad that I hopped on the train to Bang Pa-In. Having read about the still-used Royal Palace, I was eager to explore it for myself.

Alighting from the train, I was surprised to find that there were no taxis but, undeterred, I set out to reach the palace. Passing traditional homes and barking dogs (more about Ayutthaya’s dogs shortly!), the hot Thai sun beating down on me, I was glad to reach the gates of the palace about 20 minutes later. I had taken a sarong to cover my shoulders but if you go unprepared and aren’t dressed appropriately (shoulders and knees covered), you can borrow items from the reception area.

The palace grounds contain a number of buildings in various architectural styles. It’s interesting to see that there is only one traditional Thai structure in the whole palace area: a sparkling mosaic-covered pavilion that casts its reflection seductively on the waters of the surrounding pond. Other buildings showcase mainly Chinese or European designs. Climb to the top of the lighthouse-like structure for great views of the grounds, snap a selfie with one of the Italian-like statues, and, if you’re tall like me, stoop to enter the tiny low-ceilinged buildings.

Ayutthaya Floating Market: Charming place to shop, eat, and have fun

You might be surprised to find that many visitors to Ayutthaya Floating Market are Thai tourists, as opposed to international visitors. It offers a wonderful insight into Thai leisure and the sense of sanuk (fun) that pervades Thai society. There are plenty of delicious snacks to feast upon, quirky statues to giggle at, and varied activities, such as feeding lambs and watching a snake snow, to provide a mixed experience.

Browsing the waterside stores, I was also pleasantly surprised to realise that the prices were incredibly reasonable and not ridiculously marked up as in many other tourist attractions. I was, however, unpleasantly surprised when the booming sound of cannon fire shattered my peaceful thoughts! Each evening there are re-enactments of battles from Ayutthaya’s past, showing how invading Burmese forces ransacked the ancient city. Shots are fired by people in period costume, both from in boats and from the edges of the waterways. Scenes are played out in a small theatre, but, with the speech all in Thai, it’s enough to join the crowds lining the bridges and wooden walkways to watch the outdoor action.

Klong Sa Bua: Lovely water theatre for a taste of traditional Thailand

Having seen a small sign for Klong Sa Bua I was curious to find out more.

After travelling into what felt like the back of beyond, I was a bit taken aback to find such a lovely place. Wooden seats and benches line the waters, and vendors offer an array of tempting Thai goodies for you to nibble on whilst you’re watching a show. The snacks wrapped in banana leaves are particularly cute.

Shows take place on a watery stage, with the performers seemingly gliding across the water’s surface. The traditional costumes are beautiful, and the musical accompaniments are enchanting. I was spellbound! Even though I couldn’t understand a word of the dialogues, the themes, including love, war, and daily life, were easy to understand. One of Ayutthaya’s less-visited spots, I would really recommend spending an afternoon at Klong Sa Bua.

Fun festivals: Fantastic chance to join in with local celebrations

Whilst festivals are fun all around Thailand, there is something extra special about celebrating in the shade of ancient ruins. 

I also loved experiencing Chinese New Year in Ayutthaya. Sure, it’s not as elaborate as in other Asian destinations, but it has a really wholesome and good-natured feel about it, with many members of the local community joining in to showcase Chinese heritage, arts, and folklore. Huge street markets are set up, offering a range of Chinese meals and snacks, traditional Chinese plays are performed on large stages, and the sound of music and laughter fills the air. Highlights for me were watching the dragon dances and dragon-fighting competitions.    

Nighttime boat or tuk tuk tour: Different perspective of Ayutthaya

Exploring Ayutthaya by night is really quite different to sightseeing by day. The ruined city takes on a whole new, and rather ethereal, character, with many of the top sights bathed in a soft glow from strategically placed lights. You can negotiate the price for a tuk tuk ride or join an organised boat trip; I did both and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either. Some boat trips include karaoke, so you can croon your heart out whilst admiring the sights  ̶  Country Roads or Yellow River anyone?!

Ayutthaya’s nightlife: Laid-back night scene

Even though Ayutthaya isn’t one of Thailand’s known party destinations, and you won’t find the all-night revelry that’s common on some of the islands, you can enjoy a low-key and relaxed nightlife with plenty of opportunities to mingle with locals and make new friends. The locally nicknamed Soi Farang (Foreigner Street) is where many visitors head to first, a short road with several bars, restaurants, and guesthouses. Live music keeps things energetic in some bars, and it’s easy to hop from one place to another and pick your favourite.

The area near Ayutthaya Grand Hotel is another great pocket of nightlife, with bigger bars that attract more locals and expats than tourists. Cowboy Bar is my all-time favourite bar here, with a country and western theme, reasonably priced drinks, happy members of staff, and a vibe that makes me want to stay all night.

Street dogs: The only negative aspect I can think of!

Keeping it real, there is usually at least one negative to accompany any list of great things; the street dogs of Ayutthaya are that negative for me.

Like many places in Thailand, Ayutthaya has a large number of stray dogs. Usually harmless during the daytime (let sleeping dogs lie, and all that), come nighttime they can become rather a menace. Roaming in packs, their bark is often worse than their bite ̶ though I really wouldn’t want to risk being bitten!

People say that the dogs can smell fear, and that if you calmly continue past them you’ll be fine. This doesn’t work for me, unfortunately; I’m terrified! Hearing the howl of an angry dog is enough to set me in a frenzy, and I’ve been surrounded by a growling gang on more than one occasion. Making your own bigger pack, and walking around after dark in a group is highly recommended if you’re easily intimidated by animals. 

After a few Beer Leos or Beer Changs though, you’ll probably feel invincible enough. And, they’re not all out to get you, honestly! (Meet Petal, a sweet little stray who hangs out on Soi Farrang.)  

Worth more than just a quick side trip from Bangkok, there are many reasons to stay for at least a few days in Ayutthaya.